A Japanese Camber and Me-Made-May Week 2

I am a little bit behind in my blogging and can't quite believe that May is over half way through.  Where did those first few weeks go to.  Sewing has taken a little bit of a back seat due to... well life, family stuff and also gardening.  I have, however, made another Camber top, this will be my third time making up this pattern, the first was the flannel top here and the second the wool camber dress here. Suffice to say I really like the pattern, it's just so easy to wear with different things and very comfortable.  You can also play around with fabrics for the yoke which I did with this one.

For the top I used this lovely fabric which is a double gauze called Fuwari Fuwari by Nani Iro.  This is only my second time using this type of fabric but I can now see why they are so popular.  They are lovely to cut and sew with, don't fray too much and are absolutely gorgeous to wear, brilliant for warm weather, but yet they somehow have a cosiness to them when it's not so warm.

So having already made two Cambers this one didn't take too long, the fun was in deciding how to use the fabric.  These double gauzes generally have two or more patterns on them so might be challenging and I suppose you may need more fabric accordingly because of this.  Anyway, I used the finer speckled pattern for the back yoke and sleeves and the bigger louder type pattern for the body and neck trim. It turned out pretty well, I think.

This was at the end of the working day and having driven over fifty miles, so not too creased, compared to linen or some cottons, so very practical.  I might leave Camber for a while, but I know I will definitely be back to again and again.

Incidentally Merchant and Mills have two new patterns out, the landgate pattern, which is a unisex over the head cagoule type jacket which I found myself purchasing and the other is the landgate pattern which is a coat.  I resisted the Landgate for now, but probably only a matter of time.

So I better do a quick round up of Me-Made-May Week 2 (before Week 3 finishes)

Simplicity 1806 blouse, trousers & waistcoat Toast

Sewaholic Renfrew longer version without waistband.

Tessuti Fave Top

Tessuti Alexa T & Sirdar knit 9662

Merchant and Mills Grandad shirt dress

Wiksten Tova top

Maria Denmark Yasmin Yoke skirt & Deer and Doe Airelle blouse.

Soon be time for Week 3 round up, I will get caught up eventually.

The Camber Set dress pockety style.

So having made the Camber top from Merchant and Mills a couple of months ago, I thought I would give the Camber Set dress a little try.  The fabric I used is 97% wool, 3% spandex which I got at myfabrics.com in their sale.  It is basically a light weight wool with a tiny bit of stretch and was a joy to work with.  I would have been a bit nervous on working with wool previously (I suppose because it can be pricey and I don't want to make a mess of it) but now that I have done a few projects using wool I can say that I really like it.  It is easy to cut and very easy to sew with.  Anyway back to the fabric - it is navy, green & sort of limey beige check (would have preferred it to be more white).

The dress has the same neckline details and back yoke, but is a little more shaped than the top.  I cut the 14 and gradually reduced to a 12 from just under the bustline and I am very happy with the fit.

I also decided to add in-seam pockets to the dress - it's just nice to have them, I think.  The beauty about the Merchant and Mills patterns is that they appear to be very simple and classic in design. Don't let that fool you though, they are not to be rushed.  Though there certainly is nothing difficult in them, I think it pays off to take your time on the details, like the bias on the neckline, getting the yoke just right, the darts and even the top stitching details.  They are definitely the type of patterns you will return to again and again especially if you like the simple, classic styles.

 
I think this is a great work dress and extremely comfortable, but it would be great in the summer made in double gauze or linen fabric, especially if you were travelling somewhere hot.

I think it is maybe slightly long on me, I might take it up about an inch. Length of clothing can make the difference between flattering and well.... not so flattering.  It's all a matter of taste, I suppose.

My twelve year old informed me that the belt didn't quite work and you know I think he may be right.  Think it's better worn plain and simply. Excuse the shadowy photos, but I guess that must mean there is sun around.  So what do I think of the Camber dress?  If you want a simple, classic style dress, then this is it.  Honestly, on me, I don't think the neckline is really right for my shape, I think I prefer a lower neckline (it really is quite high) but the rest of it is great.  I have worn it and will continue to wear it and it is really ideal for this time of the year with a cardigan or jacket over it, but I think I prefer it as a top.

A dark Camber on the Winter solstice.

Not one normally for dark clothes (had enough of that when I worked in Finance) it did seem appropriate to have finished my navy Camber top on the shortest day of the year.  Have to say I struggled to even see it... navy thread on dark navy fabric, probably not a good idea.

Having enjoyed previous Merchant and Mills patterns when they first came out (namely the Dress Shirt and the Panel dress) I really wanted to give their new ones a try.  This was kind of a muslin to see firstly the process and also check the fit. I decided to make the Tee shirt in the Camber Set first, with a view to making the dress. It looks such a simple classic design I thought I would have it made in an afternoon, but like all classically tailored garments there is more to it than meets the eye.

The fabric I used for the main is Brannock and Patek flannel in navy check from Raystitch. These fabrics are lovely and cosy, although not heavy, I used one before to make a Banksia blouse (by Megan Nielson) and wore it a lot last year. The fabric used for the yoke was from Parson Gray range Curious Nature called Universe.  I had previously used this to make a tie for the husband.

 The two fabrics worked well together, I think.

Anyway... the pattern itself. The beauty of it is definitely in the details.

1.  Quite long bust darts which give it a great shape.
2.  A lovely narrow fine neck binding.
3.  A lined yoke on the back which is stitched along with the back neck binding.

The last point, to be honest, I found surprisingly tricky and got it on the 3rd attempt.  I would say it is worth taking your time to really accurately cut your pattern pieces and fabric and also to measure your seam allowances so that they are spot on.  I think I was rushing a bit, which meant it actually took longer in the end.

Having made this once I will definitely be doing more.  There are so many possibilities, for winter it would be lovely in a Liberty Lantana or other fine wool fabric, or even cord. In summer linen or chambray probably in a plain fabric would be great.  It would be very business-like with a suit for anyone who works in that sort of office environment, but equally nice with casual trousers.

This was a multi-size pattern which is, as you would expect from Merchant and Mills, a lovely quality made from a very durable paper. I made the size 14 with no modifications at all and it is a perfect fit on me. I wasn't really sure if it would suit me, but I love it and will definitely be making the dress....  I have a tartan fabric lined up for that, maybe in time for Hogmanay!! It seems to have a bit more curve going on, so should be nice,  look forward to making it.

I have been pondering as to why it is named the Camber.  I presume it is to do with the slope of the shoulders and neckline with the yoke, but I could be totally wrong, anyway.... I like it.