Sunday, 22 December 2013

A dark Camber on the Winter solstice.

Not one normally for dark clothes (had enough of that when I worked in Finance) it did seem appropriate to have finished my navy Camber top on the shortest day of the year.  Have to say I struggled to even see it... navy thread on dark navy fabric, probably not a good idea.

Having enjoyed previous Merchant and Mills patterns when they first came out (namely the Dress Shirt and the Panel dress) I really wanted to give their new ones a try.  This was kind of a muslin to see firstly the process and also check the fit. I decided to make the Tee shirt in the Camber Set first, with a view to making the dress. It looks such a simple classic design I thought I would have it made in an afternoon, but like all classically tailored garments there is more to it than meets the eye.

The fabric I used for the main is Brannock and Patek flannel in navy check from Raystitch. These fabrics are lovely and cosy, although not heavy, I used one before to make a Banksia blouse (by Megan Nielson) and wore it a lot last year. The fabric used for the yoke was from Parson Gray range Curious Nature called Universe.  I had previously used this to make a tie for the husband.

 The two fabrics worked well together, I think.

Anyway... the pattern itself. The beauty of it is definitely in the details.

1.  Quite long bust darts which give it a great shape.
2.  A lovely narrow fine neck binding.
3.  A lined yoke on the back which is stitched along with the back neck binding.

The last point, to be honest, I found surprisingly tricky and got it on the 3rd attempt.  I would say it is worth taking your time to really accurately cut your pattern pieces and fabric and also to measure your seam allowances so that they are spot on.  I think I was rushing a bit, which meant it actually took longer in the end.

Having made this once I will definitely be doing more.  There are so many possibilities, for winter it would be lovely in a Liberty Lantana or other fine wool fabric, or even cord. In summer linen or chambray probably in a plain fabric would be great.  It would be very business-like with a suit for anyone who works in that sort of office environment, but equally nice with casual trousers.

This was a multi-size pattern which is, as you would expect from Merchant and Mills, a lovely quality made from a very durable paper. I made the size 14 with no modifications at all and it is a perfect fit on me. I wasn't really sure if it would suit me, but I love it and will definitely be making the dress....  I have a tartan fabric lined up for that, maybe in time for Hogmanay!! It seems to have a bit more curve going on, so should be nice,  look forward to making it.

I have been pondering as to why it is named the Camber.  I presume it is to do with the slope of the shoulders and neckline with the yoke, but I could be totally wrong, anyway.... I like it.

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